ADOPT A RESCUE RABBIT
Penny & Wild: Smalls of South Florida is a 501(c)(3) non-profit, no-kill sanctuary and rescue dedicated to providing a safe haven for special needs rabbits & guinea pigs located in South Florida. We currently have 3 special needs guinea pigs & 7 special needs rabbits in our care:
We also have rabbits & guinea pigs who do not have special needs who are looking for loving, foster and forever homes. By adopting from a small animal rescue, you are not only saving a life but also making room for us to rescue another in need so THANK YOU!!
Wondering where to get a rabbit or guinea pig? Here’s why you should adopt from a small animal rescue:
Unlike most rabbits & guinea pigs that come from Petstores, farms or breeders, all of our rabbits & guinea pigs are spay / neutered prior to adoption and get annual wellness exams to ensure they are healthy.
Adoption Fee: $100/rabbit
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Are you thinking about adopting a rabbit? Did you know …
- 3rd most popular & 3rd most abandoned pet in the US.
- 10+ year commitment.
- 3-4hrs of attention and care per day.
- $2,500 or more per year in food, supplies and care.
- 4FT x 4FT (16sq ft) of living space per rabbit. Cannot be kept outdoors, in hutches or in cages.
- $$$ Need to be seen by an Exotic Vet every year, a wellness costs $75-90 in FL.
Our adoption process is designed to ensure that every home is set up for furever success and is well-prepared for their new pet. The approval timeline can vary depending on how quickly applicants complete the 3 steps below.
Typically, it takes 1-2 weeks from the start of the process until you can welcome your new rabbit(s) into your home.
1. APPLICATION
- Submit an Adoption Application
- Zoom Adoption Orientation / Bunny101
- Complete POST Bunny101 Questionnaire
2. PREPARATION
- Schedule a Meet&Greet
- Order Required Supplies
- Submit picture Home Set-up
- Bunny Proof your home
3. ADOPTION
- Schedule Home Visit / Drop-off
- Complete Foster to Adopt trial
- Pay Adoption Fee: $100/rabbit
TO APPLY:
- Must be 18 years of age or older and provide a driver license or state ID card.
- If under 21 and/or still living at home: a parent or guardian will need to participate in the adoption process.
- Everyone in the household (spouses, parents, roommates, etc.) will need to agree to and participate in the adoption process.
- Renters will need to provide written approval from their landlord to have rabbits.
1. INDOORS ONLY: Domestic rabbits should be housed and kept indoors at all times. Taking rabbits outdoors is not only stressful for them but exposes them to many dangers, such as: RHDV II, predators, parasites (fleas, ticks, mites, lice, fly strike, bot flies, etc.) and heatstroke (rabbits begin to show signs of overheating at just 76°F / 24°C).
- NO: patios, porches, backyards, or walks/outdoor playtime.
2. CENTRAL: The rabbits enclosure should be in an adults bedroom or a central, high-traffic area like the living room.
- NO: laundry room, kitchen, bathroom, garages, patios, etc.
3. FREE ROAM TIME: The rabbit cannot stay in the enclosure all of the time and will need 3-4 hours of daily supervised free-roam time to explore and exercise in a “bunny-proofed” room.
MINIMUM RABBITAT SIZE:
4ft x 4ft, 16sq ft 1 dwarf sized rabbit (2-4lb)
4ft x 6ft, 24sq ft 1 medium sized rabbit (5-9lb) or a pair of dwarfs
6ft x 6ft, 36sq ft 1 large breed rabbit (10-14lb) or a pair of medium sized rabbits or a trio of dwarfs
FREE ROAM giant breed rabbits (15lb+)
A single dwarf rabbit needs a minimum 4ft x 4ft (16sq ft) living space when enclosed, preferably 4ft x 6ft (24sq ft).
This will be their “home-base” for when you cannot supervise them. For each additional rabbit (or 4lb of body weight), add 8-12sq ft to their living space to maintain a healthy and harmonious environment and prevent fighting and bulling due to resource guarding amongst multiple rabbits. Giant breeds will need an entire room to free roam all of the time.
Cages and hutches DO NOT provide enough room for exercise and overall well-being for rabbits. Not providing enough space can lead to a host of problems due to depression and frustration. These often lead to rabbits pacing back and forth, cage chewing (which can damage their teeth), and cage aggression (growling, lunging and biting at hands that reach into their space or during cleaning). Health issues such as obesity, heart disease, muscle atrophy, skeletal changes, and infections are more common. Cages and hutches are also notoriously difficult to keep clean as rabbits end up using the entire space as a litter box.
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1 | Habitat
minimum: 30-36in tall, 4ft x 4ft (16sq ft); preferred: 4ft x 6ft (24sq ft)
- Area Rug | minimum: 5ft x 7ft
- Litter box and Litter | minimum: 14in x 18in
- Ceramic Water Bowl | 3-5 cup capacity
- Hidey House
2 | Diet
- Hay | Alfalfa for Juveniles or Timothy for Adults | min. 90oz
- Pellets | Oxbow Adult or Young Adult Food
- Greens | Spring Mix
- Treats
3 | Toys, Enrichment & Grooming
- Grooming Supplies | nail clippers and brush or comb
- Enrichment | Chew toys, snuffle mats, tunnels, puzzle toys, etc.
4 | Carrier
single rabbit (2-4lb): 12in W x 18in L | single rabbit (5-10lb) or pair: 15in W x 23in L
Rabbits & Children
MYTH: Rabbits are easy, low maintenance or good, “starter” pets for small children.
TRUTH: Because they are prey animals, rabbits are startled by fast movements and loud noises and DO NOT usually like to be picked up or cuddled. When startled or threatened, a rabbit may bite or scratch. Many rabbits end up with broken bones or paralyzed after being dropped or mishandled by a child.
The Truth About the Easter Bunny
80% of bunnies purchased for Easter are abandoned a few months later. Most will not survive to be 1 year old.
Every year after Easter and Christmas thousands of rabbits are abandoned in shelters or “released in the wild”, where they will not survive. Domestic rabbits do not have the instincts or know how to find food, water and shelter; many are hit by cars, attacked by predators, starve or succumb to an injury or illness within a few days or weeks. But why does this happen so often with rabbits? It is primarily due to the misconception that rabbits are short-lived, cheap, easy, low-maintenance, and/or a good “starter” pets for small children.
While wonderful pets for adults and responsible older teenagers, rabbits are not ideal pets for busy households with small children. As prey animals, rabbits are easily startled by fast movements and loud noises, and do not enjoy being picked up or carried. Children will quickly get bored of a pet that they cannot cuddle or pick up and what was originally meant to be a fun and easy pet becomes a chore and a burden on the parents. An expensive one at that, since most rabbits are sold as young as 8 weeks and will need need to be spay / neutered at around 5-6 months. (Cost: $400-600 per rabbit.) If rabbits are not fixed, when their hormones surge they do not letterbox train, spray urine and become aggressive; 80% of female rabbits will develop reproductive cancers by age 4 if not spayed.
When properly cared for, rabbits can live 10+ years. They can be as intelligent and interactive as cats and dogs, curious and mischievous like a toddler, and have unique personalities but they are often locked in tiny cages and called “boring”. They can absolutely be very affectionate when socialized with people and they can be easily letterbox trained! They require 3-4 hours of attention and care per day and they do best living fully or mostly free-roaming in a “bunny-proofed” room or area where they can binky and flop to their heart’s content. This should be in a bedroom or central high-traffic area such as the living room. You can follow YouTubers “Lennon the Bunny” and “Sincerely, Cinnabun” to find out more about living with a free-roaming rabbit.
#NotJust4Easter
4 Questions to Ask Yourself Before Adopting a Rabbit
Are you getting a bunny for your child? Children will get bored. Yes, teenagers who put together a very convincing PowerPoint on why you should get a rabbit. Most rabbits do not like to be picked up or cuddled and are described as boring or fearful by young children. Are you willing to take over changing the litter-box, feeding and spending time socializing with them which usually takes 3-4hrs per day if your kids no longer do. What are you planning to do with your rabbit if your child goes away to college? Or, if you downsize your house after your kids move out?
Where do you see yourself in 10 years? Rabbits are a long term commitment and can live 10+ years. Do you see yourself loving them as much in a decade when the initial excitement fades? Are you willing to provide supportive care at the end of their life when they have arthritis and mobility issues and need accessible, low entry litterboxes or cannot see and hear as well? Are you planning to have children; and if so, will you still be able to spend 3-4hrs per day giving your rabbit the care that it needs and keeping their enclosure clean? Do you travel for work or plan on moving cross-country / out of the country in the next ten years?
Do you travel often? Or would you like to? Would you like to do a road trip across the country? Or backpack through Europe? Take a week long cruise? Or stay with family over a long weekend? Rabbits cannot be left alone for days at a time and need daily care and attention. Finding a rabbit savvy pet sitter can be tricky and boarding with a rescue or a vet can cost $25-40 per day.
Are you willing to spend $300-$1200 on Veterinary Care? Rabbits should be seen by a rabbit savvy exotic vet every year. A physical wellness exam costs $75-90 and blood work $100-$250. In the event of an emergency, x-rays and surgery can cost $1,200+ in a single day. Spay/neuter costs $400-600, and 80% of female rabbits will develop reproductive cancer by age 4 if un-spayed.
Top 10 Mistakes Rabbit Owners Make
Bonding Rabbits
Do you have a rabbit and want to get them a friend? We do Speed-dating and Pre-bonding services for groups of 2-4* rabbits. *We also bond larger groups on a case by case basis.
- Speed-date: on a typical “speed-date” we will introduce 4 – 5 rabbits, one at a time, to see who your rabbit gets along the best. The speed-date will take place in a Penny & Wild group home under the supervision of an experienced Bonding Coordinator and usually takes 1 hour. When picking which rabbits will be introduces we will consider the applicants preferences as well as our Bonding Criteria for age, size, gender and nature (see below). After a successful introduction, you will then have the option of taking the rabbits home to bond yourself or leaving the rabbits for “pre-bonding” with the Bonding Coordinator.
- Pre-bonding: rabbits that are not bonded will not be able to live together in a single enclosure right away. Even if they do well during the speed-date they will need to start of as neighbors; living side by side in 2 “mirror enclosures” (4ft x 4ft, 30″ tall X-pens). Bonding at home yourself can take 2 weeks – 2 months, or more. We offer “pre-bonding” starting at $40/day and rabbits will be ready to go home within 3-7 days and live together in a bonding pen. This makes the bonding process much shorter and easier.
If you would like to schedule a Speed-date or Pre-Bonding please fill out an Adoption Application and a Coordinator will be in touch to discuss our Adoption & Bonding Policies and recommend potential matches based on your answers.
Requirements: Rabbits must be spay / neutered and have been cleared by an exotic vet within the last 3-6 months.
Bonding Criteria:
- AGE: Rabbits should be within 1-2 years of each others age. As rabbits can go into stasis if a bond mate dies we try to match ages to not risk the health of a young rabbit being bonded to an older rabbit.
- SIZE: Rabbits should be within 1-2 lbs of each other. We do not bond rabbits who are drastically different in size due to the risk of severe injury to the smaller rabbit in the event of a fight.
- GENDER:
- M/F: these pairs are the most natural and easy to bond.
- F/F: if a female does not get along with males we will try introducing a female friend.
- M/M: with the exception of brothers who were born/raised together in the rescue and are truly bonded we do not bond males to males due to the frequency of un-bonding and severe injuries.
- SUBMISSIVE / DOMINANT NATURE:
- D/D: two dominant rabbits will not be bondable and can severely injure or even kill one another.
- S/S: likely to be a rare “love at first sight” bond. One rabbit will still be dominant but there will be minimal chasing / mounting, if any, or rabbits may alternate mounting.
- S/D: This is the most common bond, it will take time and dedicated effort. Bonding can take 2 weeks to 2 months, or more.
Out of State Adoption
Out-of-state adoptions are handled on a case-by-case basis. Please look at the considerations below and/or submit an Adoption Application if you would like to be considered.
- AGE: must be 6 months of age or older; no seniors over 7 years old.
- SPECIAL NEEDS: cannot be blind or have a medical condition.
- SEASON: no long haired rabbits between May – August, unless shaved down.
- HEALTH CERTIFICATE: $105/rabbit. All animals moving across state lines require a health certificate by law. This cost would be in addition to the adoption fee.
- TRANSPORT: adopters must transport the rabbit themselves or cover the cost of any transportation and/or associated fees for a Penny & Wild coordinator to transport the rabbit to them. This cost would be in addition to the adoption fee.
Allergies
There is no such thing as a “hypoallergenic” rabbit. All rabbits shed and have dander.
That being said, the Rex breed is known for being “low-shedding.” This is because they only have one layer of fur as opposed to two; the undercoat and overcoat that other rabbits have. Other breeds that have a single layer of fur are Plush Lops and Velveteen Lops. On the other hand, the New Zealand, Lionhead, Angora, and American Fuzzy Lop breeds are considered “high-shedding.”
Regardless of breed, rabbits will shed twice a year in spring and fall. During “shed season”, rabbits will molt their entire coat and grow a new one.
Watch this video to see a rabbit groomed: YOUTUBE