If you see a rabbit or guinea pig outside, there are 2 things to consider before bringing them home:

WILD RABBIT:

• BODY SHAPE: lean and thin. Small eyes and shorter, round ears.
• SIZE: small, usually 2.2lb (1kg).
• COLOR: short, multicolored, dark and light speckled coat or “agouti” fur type. The abdomen and tail may be a lighter or cream color.
  
• TEMPERAMENT: always on high alert and very fast. Runs away quickly if approached.

Wild rabbits will be smaller and thinner than their domestic counterparts, with smaller eyes and ears. They are leaner and have more muscle mass as they spend their lives digging shelters, running away from predators and foraging for food and water. They will run away quickly if approached.

Unless injured or a baby, it will be very difficult to catch a wild rabbit.

DOMESTIC RABBIT:

• BODY SHAPE: more rounded body shape; longer ears.
• SIZE: size may vary from 3-14lb (1-6kg).
• FUR: domestic rabbits come in a variety of colors (white, black, tan, red, brown) and patterns; may be short or long haired.
  
• TEMPERAMENT: less alert. May allow humans to approach more closely before running away. May approach for food or help.

Domestic rabbits are rounder and fatter than their wild counterparts. The have likely spent their life locked in a small cage or hutch without adequate room for exercise and overfed leading to obesity. Domestic rabbits lack the skills and instincts needed to find food and avoid dangers. They come in a variety of sizes, colors and breeds. Some even have the “agouti” coloring of a wild rabbit but with a different body shape. They may approach humans for food or help.

DOMESTIC GUINEA PIG:

• BODY SHAPE: potato.
• SIZE: smol.
• FUR: provides 0 camouflage.
  
• TEMPERAMENT: skittish.

This furry potato is build to feed, not for speed. Weighing in at just 800-1000g guinea pigs have no natural defenses and cannot survive in the wild. Their bright colors and high pitched squeaks attract predators, who they cannot outrun on their short legs.

Cages, hutches and dog creates DO NOT provide enough living space for rabbits or guinea pigs but may serve as a safe temporary enclosure for up to 2 weeks if no other option is available.

PRO TIP: Unless you already have a cage or hutch DO NOT spend money to get one, they can cost $100-200. Instead get a 30-36 inch tall “MidWest Metal Dog Exercise Pen” for rabbits ($45) or a “MidWest Guinea Pig Habitat” for guinea pigs ($65).

RABBITS:

• FLOORING: Rabbits have sensitive feet and need soft flooring in their area. You can get a 50in x 70in oversized blanket from Ross or TJ Maxx for $12-16. Do not use rugs or carpets until after you have completed treating any potential parasites.
• LITTER BOX: (minimum size: 14in x 18in) L or XL high sided cat liter box like the “Arm & Hammer Litter Box” or the “So Phresh Litter Box“.
  NO: plastic or metal grids as these are not comfortable for rabbits feet and can cause sore feet, broken nails or toes if their feet get caught.
• LITTER: “Oxbow Eco-straw“, “Recycled Paper Pellets” must be unscented and have no baking soda; Oxbow, Small Pet Select and Kaytee offer “paper bedding” however this type of litter will need to be changed more often, doesn’t cover odors and may be more messy as rabbits tend to kick it out of the litter box when they jump out. “Tractor Supply Pine Pellets” are a safe, low cost litter.
  NO: clay or clumping cat litters; or soft wood shavings such as aspen, cedar, pine, walnut as these can cause skin, eye and respiratory irritation.
• FOOD / WATER BOWLS: (minimum size: 3 – 5 cup capacity) Use a heavy ceramic water bowl for water. It should be heavy enough that the rabbit cannot fling it or tip it over, plastic and metal bowls are not heavy enough. Food bowls are optional. Food pellets can be scatter fed to encourage foraging and fresh greens can be hand fed to encourage bonding.
  NO: water bottles.
• HIDING AREA: As prey animals, rabbits need a safe place to run and hide. Give them a “Cardboard Houses” or “Tunnels” to retreat to. You can also use a cardboard box but be sure to remove all tape and shipping labels.
• FOOD a balanced diet consists of mostly hay, vegetables and greens, fortified pellets. See below.

GUINEA PIGS:

• BEDDING: For soft bedding, we recommend “Oxbow Pure Comfort“, “Small Pet Select Unbleached White Paper Bedding“, “Small Pet Select Pelleted Paper Bedding“, or “Kaytee Clean & Cozy“. You can also get a washable cage liner at “Guinea Pig Market“, “Guinea Dad“, “Kavee“, or “Etsy“.
  AVOID: all wood shavings including aspen, cedar, pine, walnut as these can cause skin, eye and respiratory irritation.
• WATER BOTTLES: get at least 1 water bottle per guinea pig to prevent resource guiding. Guinea pigs may hoard a single water source and keep other guinea pigs from drinking.
• HIDING AREA: get at least 1 hidey house per guinea pig. For the same reason, you’ll want to provide 2 identical hidey houses to prevent one guinea pig from being left out or fighting over a more desirable house. Any tunnels, cuddle cups, cuddle sacks and hanging corners should also be provided in twos.
• FOOD a balanced diet consists of mostly hay, vegetables and greens, fortified pellets. See below.

One of the most common mistakes we see is giving rabbits and guinea pigs large amounts of cabbage, iceberg lettuce, corn, fruits or carrots to eat.

PRO TIP: Never feed corn or iceberg lettuce as it can cause GI upset, instead get spring mix and feed according to the guide below. Rabbits and guinea pigs shouldn’t get more than 1-2 teaspoon size servings of fruits per week. That’s about the size of 1 strawberry or 1 baby carrot PER WEEK.

80-90% of a rabbit and guinea pigs diet should be high quality grass hay.

• Juvenile rabbits and guinea pigs (up to 6 months): Alfalfa Hay
• Adult rabbits and guinea pigs (6 months +): Timothy Hay

PRO TIP: You can get a 90oz bag of Oxbow Timothy Hay at your nearest pet store for about $20, it will last 2-3 weeks.

10% of a rabbit and guinea pig’s diet should be green leafy vegetables. Organic vegetables (no pesticides) are recommended whenever possible. Always remove seeds as these are a choking risk.

• Baby rabbits and guinea pigs: NO greens or vegetables.
• Juvenile rabbits and guinea pigs: can start to have small amounts of vegetables introduced into their diet at 2 months old (guinea pigs) and 3 months old (rabbits). Vegetables should be introduced gradually, one per week, so that you can monitor for sensitivity or stomach upset. If any vegetable seems to cause digestive problems do not feed it in the future.
• Adult rabbits and guinea pigs: can have 1/2 cup (guinea pigs) and 1-2 cups (rabbits) of leafy greens and 1-2 tablespoon of non-leafy green vegetables per day.

5% of a rabbit and guinea pig’s diet should be fortified food pellets.

• Baby rabbits and guinea pigs (up to 3 months): unlimited alfalfa based pellets.
• Juvenile rabbits and guinea pigs (3-6 months): 1 tbsp (guinea pigs) and 4tbsp (rabbits) of alfalfa based pellets.
• Adult rabbits and guinea pigs (6 months +): 2tbsp (guinea pigs) and 2tbsp of pellets per 2lb of body weight (rabbits).

Less than 5% of a rabbit and guinea pig’s diet can be fruits and treats. Feed no more than 1-2 teaspoon size servings of fruits per week. That’s about the size of 1 strawberry or 1 baby carrot.

Most Florida Rabbit & Guinea Pig rescues are FULL or OVER CAPACITY. They receive anywhere from 10-60 request for help PER WEEK and it may take months on a wait-list before they can accept a rabbit or guinea pig into their care.

Be prepared to potentially have to drive as far as 5 hours away if a rescue or shelter has available space.

Below we will list rescues and shelters in Florida that may accept small animals but first we’ll share some questions you should ask before giving away the rabbits or guinea pig, common reasons rescues have to turn people away and ways that you can increase the chance your request is approved!

You can also try to find a home on your own by posting in this Florida Rehoming Group for Rabbits & Guinea Pigs: “FLORIDA RABBITS & GUINEA PIGS“

Its important to screen people, even rescues, before giving a rabbit or guinea pig away. Ask if they provide veterinary care and what veterinarians they work with. Do they spay and neuter before rehoming their animals and do they ever breed them? Where will they be housing them? Rabbits and guinea pigs should be housed indoors as it is too hot in Florida for them to be outdoors. Ask to see pictures of their enclosures. Find them online or on social media to see if you can find posts that show they provide veterinary care, pictures of the animals outside, or promotions for new litters or baby rabbits and guinea pigs.

A reputable rescue will have no problem answering any of the questions above and explaining their protocols. If they become defensive, hostile, refuse to provide pictures or are not truthful, this is a big red flag that something might not be right.

Due to limited space, needing time to find placement for the animals that are currently in the rescue or on the wait-list, and the cost of veterinary care, a rescue may not be able to take your rabbit or guinea pig right away. It may be months before they have the space and resources available to be able to help you.

Below are ways you can help rescues and increase the chance your request will be approved:

• “If you do not take this animal I will put them back outside in a week” Threats will not create additional space or funds and neither will a short deadline. It is also cruel as the rabbit and guinea pig are will likely get hit by a car or attacked by a predator. If you or someone you know can keep the rabbit or guinea pig for a couple of weeks or months, a rescue is much more likely to be able to help you.

• “I can foster until they get adopted” Space is often the biggest limiting factor for rescues. If you agree to foster until the rabbit or guinea pig is adopted, the rescue is more likely to approve your request. Keep in mind this can take 4-6 months or more, you will need to agree to follow the rescues care requirements and rescues may only accept fosters that are local to them.
• “I can help cover the cost of veterinary care and getting them spay/neutered” Before rehoming a rabbit or guinea pigs, a legitimate rescue will take them to a vet for a wellness exam, provide treatment for any parasites, and have them spay/neutered. This can cost around $250-300. If the animal is sick or injured, veterinary care can easily cost $900-1500 or more. Rescues are donation based and many times have to pay out of their own pockets to save an animal.
• “They are already spay/neutered and have been to the vet recently” You can also be pro-active and take them to the vet yourself to be examined and spay/neutered. Have a look at our VETERINARIANS page for a list of exotic veterinarians and low cost clinics and shelters that see rabbits and guinea pigs.